Tag Archives: Training

New Addition + Gentle Leader

A couple of weeks ago, Christopher and I welcomed a new addition into our family.  She is an almost 1 1/2 year old Australian Shepherd mix.  She came with the name “Miss Bella”, but didn’t seem particularly attached or responsive to Bella, so we renamed her Clio (at the suggestion of my 6 year old niece).  My first dog’s name was Bella, so it didn’t feel right anyway.

The first couple of days when she joined us on our family morning walks,  I leashed up Finnegan with the Gentle Leader that I used every time I walk him.  Clio only weighs 40 lbs, though….how much trouble could she be? I hooked the leash directly to her collar and off we went.

Saw our first bird—she went ballistic.  Saw our first dog behind a fence—she went ballistic.  Saw a dog about 100 feet away—you guessed it.  During the week, Christopher and I walk the dogs alone, and he was having the same experience.  Her form of ballistic was quite graceful and ballet-like…flipping into the air while “singing” in a LOUD falsetto voice. Not what I was going for at all.

So, off to the pet store to get a Gentle Leader.  So many people through the years of owning Dawg House have asked me about leash training.  It is quite common to simply want to go for a nice walk with your dog,  and have it quickly turn into a nightmare.  Reactivity on the leash happens all the time; the Gentle Leader can really help with that.

In addition to preventing your dog from pulling (it works much like a horse bridle and reigns—your dog pulls and he/she ends up pulling herself in a circle, back at you), but it also works with pressure points on the dogs head to give a calming effect.  You have complete control of your dogs’ head as well, so if they are helping themselves to one of life’s many “treats” they may find on the ground, you can immediately pull their snout away.

This gadget really works so well…and most dogs take to it pretty immediately.  Occasionally, you’ll get some protest…but once your dog realizes that putting the Gentle Leader on means WALKIES!!, they get over that pretty quickly.  It also gives the advantage of choosing if you want to simply go for nice walk for exercise and fun, or for a training walk to work on commands and control with your dog.  You can do either immediately, and that changes everything.

So, got home with the Gentle Leader (in a medium! I’ve never had a dog this small since my childhood dog Winston!), put it on her…and her entire demeanor changed.  I think it actually gave her a physical reminder that there were boundaries, and she needed that SO badly.  She didn’t need to be so wild and out of control and it visibly made her more content.

Now…if it would only help to teach her boundaries in the house…”No, Clio, whatever is on the kitchen counter is NOT a snack for you…”

Dog Daycare Goals and Perceptions

Dawg House dawgs have individual and diverse personalities, levels of energy, play and relaxation styles, mental and physical stimulation needs. Under one big roof, in essentially one big indoor dog park, we work hard to address all those things. We also try to find out what your long and short-term goals are as the mom and dad, and work toward those!

1. Some dawgs have a ton of energy every day, all day, and need to “get out the crazies” with other dogs on a regular basis. These dogs play hard and fast at daycare and need a human referee to make sure they play safe.

2. Some dawgs are shy or introverted, and need some dawg-and-human time outside of what their mom and dad can provide on a regular basis. Daycare is all about socialization: we specifically work toward the positive socialization of dawgs in a pack environment. Being exposed to other dawgs and humans in an outside-of-the-home environment on a regular basis is important for building confidence and providing mental stimulation.

3. Some dawgs have boundary issues or other social quirks that could use adjustment or refining. Maybe they need reinforcement with training issues like jumping up on people, “demand” barking, a too-aggressive play style, or just learning how to play well with others. We work very hard at Dawg House, refining play styles and setting boundaries in a social environment. We also work hard reinforcing good play styles with positive feedback.

Most dawgs have a little of all of these things in their personalities. Most dawgs could use some reinforcement in their basic training (sit, stay, no bark, down, off), positive reinforcement in their play style (good job, Mr. Pickles!), social exposure to other dawgs in a supervised, safe pack environment, mental and physical stimulation, and just a nice change of scenery with friends.

We know that folks watch the Dawgie Cam from work and home, and often have questions or concerns about what they observe. On any given day, you can watch dawgs playing hard and fast, relaxing in a group nap session, sniffing and wrestling, and you can see how humans regulate these activities.

We get questions about what people see. Maybe Mr. Pickles doesn’t seem to be as perky as usual – this could be that they’re just easing into things, or waiting for a different group to play with, or just watching. Maybe Mr. Pickles hasn’t been on cam after a particularly aggressive play session – this could mean they’re resting in another area, or a human has given them a neutral ‘time out’ to regulate the energy level of the group. Maybe a wrestling match looks a little fierce – not to worry – a human is always paying attention, watching and listening for warnings that things might be too heated.

As “dog behaviorists” we do our best to address both long-term and short-term dog daycare goals. A short term goal might be “I need Mr. Pickles nice and tired tonight because I’m having people over for dinner.” A long term goal might be “Mr. Pickles has been skittish around other dogs, and I want to make sure to reinforce positive interactions with him by bringing him to daycare.”

There are some mis-conceptions about how this works, however. We do try to communicate to new clients that it is best to bring your dog regularly in order that they get used to dog daycare, the pack environment, the human referees, and all that goes with the daily cycle. As dogs become regulars, we try to reinforce longer-term goals like basic training commands, positive play, and how to adjust to an ever-changing pack. Dawgs do need to come on a regular basis in order for these reinforcements to become natural and habitual. They forget, and they get out of practice. A skittish dog that takes a couple of weeks off or has a bad experience at the dog park or on a walk may take a few steps back and need to catch up on their confidence all over. We don’t pressure folks to come more often, but we do emphasize the importance of positive, regular social exposure.

More on how these things work in future blog posts… and we’d love to hear feedback from you!

##

Aside

The Dog Who Knows 1,000 Words

“For one amazing dog, the words “sit,” “fetch,” and “roll over” aren’t the limits of her language — they’re only the beginning. Six-year-old female border collie Chaser has been trained by her owner to understand more than 1,000 words, along with simple sentences.”

Chaser and Neil deGrasse Tyson

“Chaser’s owner, John Pilley, has spent years training and testing the limits of her intelligence. The 82-year-old psychology professor used children’s toys and other objects to teach Chaser nouns, and she’s still learning new things.”

“The flexibility we see in dogs seems to be very similar to what you see in young children at a very important age in their development,” said animal researcher Brian Hare at the Duke Institute for Brain Sciences.

“Hare studies primates, including chimps and bonobos, which have shown the ability to learn sign language and solve sophisticated problems. But their learning is slow compared with Chaser’s ability to quickly learn and recall new words.”

Text from ABC: World’s Smartest Dog

See a GREAT video with  Neil deGrasse Tyson on NOVA Science Now

##

DOG FIGHTS: What You Can Do

Recently some clients have told us stories of dog fights, and in two cases, there were some bad injuries to the humans. Dog fights are something to be avoided at all costs, because once they start, they can quickly get beyond our control.

The best thing to do is to predict aggressive situations between dogs and prevent them from happening. But when things escalate and a fight breaks out, it’s important to have some ideas how to handle the situation. We want to cover both aspects briefly here, giving you some ideas about reading and controlling dog interactions, and providing some tips on what to do if you find yourself trying to separate fighting dogs.

WATCHING AND PREVENTING

There are rules we follow at Dawg House to help avoid the most common fight-provoking situations:

All dogs have to be on leashes in the lobby; this way, dogs showing aggression can be separated quickly. The flip side of this is that some dogs become more aggressive on-leash, because they feel protective of their owner. Leash aggression is a common issue, and it should be dealt with immediately and firmly by stopping, making the dog sit, and having the dog focus and pay attention to the owner. Only when the dog responds appropriately should they be allowed to continue moving on their own. (This sort of training takes a LOT of patience for the owner – stick with it! Eventually you should be able to say STOP or NO BARK and get a quick response.)

A quick note: whenever we talk about giving a command to a dog, the format should be (1) the name of the dog and then (2) the command. For instance: ‘Muffin, no bark!’ or ‘Finnegan, sit!’ Always say their name first so they know to pay attention.

We do not allow ‘demand’ barking toward us or toward other dogs; that is, if a dog is barking at us or another dog as if to say, ‘HEY I’m TALKING to you! Pay ATTENTION!,’ we say ‘NO BARK!’ and make that dog sit and pay attention to us.

There are reasons to make a dog pay attention to you after you give it a command. Primarily, they should obey the command and look to you for the next instruction, or for praise. If you say, ‘Benjamin, sit!’ and he sits, he should receive praise right away after sitting: ‘Benjamin, good boy!’ Dogs LIVE FOR PRAISE and will quickly learn what to do to please you. This technique is also at the heart of positive reinforcement.

We do not allow dominating behavior between playing dogs. No humping or mounting, no neck chewing, and no leg biting. Dogs do bite and nip at each other on the ears and head in play, and they should be allowed to wrestle together and socialize this way, but purely dominating behavior should be discouraged. Separate the dogs and make them sit and cool off; if the dominating behavior continues, time-out the aggressor for five minutes. Remember to PRAISE good play in the meantime!

Dominating behavior looks like what it is: one dog sitting on top of the other and not allowing them to get up; mounting from any direction; one dog forcing its’ head across another dogs’ shoulders; biting, ripping or ‘pecking’ at the top or underside of another dogs’ neck; tackling or rolling another dog; ‘hambone-ing’ or biting another dog’s back legs. These things sometimes look like play but they are often preludes to more aggressive behavior.

WARNING SIGNS

Sometimes there’s not much you can do: a very nice and responsible woman was home while her dog was lying in the front doorway napping; another dog walked by outside and growled at the woman’s dog in the doorway, and BOOM – a fight broke out. Trying to separate the two dogs, the woman ended up with deep bite wounds and bone bruising up and down both of her forearms. Another client tried to break up a fight at a dog park and ended up with dozens of stitches in her arms and a day in the hospital.

Dog fights happen FAST and things get ugly right away. Occasionally, dogs will get into a scuffle, or “argument” as we call it at Dawg House and they can be separated by water squirts and loud commands.  If the fight continues as you try to separate the dogs without getting physically involved, they ARE trying to kill each other. Pay attention to the signals, and so long as your dog doesn’t get blind-sided, you can usually see that a fight is coming. When dogs are playing, pay attention to the domination behaviors we listed, and keep those in check. There is also a whole range of more  subtle signals to be aware of when dogs are playing or saying hi / sizing each other up:

Raised hackles (hairs on the back of the neck) mean that a dog is in a heightened state of awareness – not necessarily aggression – but this is a good time to start paying attention to what’s going on.  Often times dogs arrive at Dawg House for the day, and their hackles go up for entrance.  This is only a reminder to the other dogs that he/she is “huge” and not to be messed with on entrance.

Tails and ears will tell you a lot about a dog. Ears UP generally means things are OK (or indicates a heightened awareness) but ears BACK generally indicates an aggressive posture (unless it’s a puppy, in which case it indicates full submission). Tails and ears can convey a complex set of indicators, so it’s important to combine these observations with other factors such as vocalizations, eyes, lips and teeth, and postures. Check out the series of illustrations in this article for more information.

Teeth bared and/or low growling are huge signals that a dog is ‘on point.’ Dogs attack when they feel threatened, which also means they do not feel safe. SO: if you encounter a dog who is telling you and/or your dog that they feel threatened, back off. Slowly. With nice talk. Simple enough. And if your dog is showing these signs, be the pack leader that you are and take control: back your dog out of the situation and calm them down. Be CALM and ASSERTIVE and you can generally avoid any fights.

Being CALM is important. Dogs sense more about our demeanor than we could ever hope to imagine, and they pay attention to the information we are giving them: our body language, our breathing, the tone of our voices, where our eyes are looking, what we’re doing with our hands, and a million other clues. Being CALM will encourage your dog to also remain calm, and being ASSERTIVE / FIRM with your dog will assure them that YOU are in control, which means they have less to fear.

Here’s a link to a good article on how we often misread a dog’s intent, and how we often assign emotions to dogs incorrectly:

http://www.psychologytoday.com/blog/my-puppy-my-self/200908/bared-teeth-raised-hackles-and-the-myth-aggressive-intent

WHEN A FIGHT BREAKS OUT

More often than not, a fight will break out without us seeing any warning signs. Suddenly, two (or more) dogs are on top of each other like Tasmanian Devils, growling and biting and ripping at each other ferociously. It’s REALLY scary to witness, and it’s hard to know what to do when you’re panicking.

Here’s the single best piece of advice we have about dog fights:If you’re going to get bit breaking up a dog fight, take a moment to decide WHERE you’re going to get bit.

The first instinct people often have is to stick their hands and arms between the dogs in order to separate them; the only thing this will accomplish is to guarantee that you get some really bad dog bites on your hands and arms, and maybe your face while it’s down there between the dogs. A dog’s jaws are so incredibly strong that there is nothing our feeble little hands can do except get hurt. Keep your arms and hands away from their teeth!

Another technique is to ‘wheelbarrow‘ one dog away from the other by grabbing its’ back legs and pulling it away from the other dog. Usually this works, forcing the dog to  unlock  their grip on the other dog.  If you wheelbarrow forcefully enough, and actually lift the dogs front legs off the ground, their face will hit the ground and you can gain control of that dog fairly quickly.  DO NOT let go of the dog until the others involved are secured, or the fight will start right up again.  Also, if this occurs while other people are around, make sure they contain the other dogs involved, even if you have to “bark” orders at them.  Most people stand there in shock and don’t really know how to react, so don’t be shy about taking control.  The last thing you want to do is hold your dog in a vulnerable position and have the other dog attack again.  Holding the dog in the wheelbarrow position also makes it almost impossible for the dog to bite you.  It takes incredible strength for the dog to twist and get a grip, which is another benefit.  However, if one dog has its’ teeth already sunk into the other, and the wheelbarrow does not separate them, when you try to pull them apart, the wound can rip or tear, making it much worse.

OK, ready for this? If you have a grip on a dog’s back legs and he has his jaws locked onto the other dog and won’t let go, here’s what you do: keep a firm grip on one of those legs, take your free hand, and push your finger into the dogs’ rectum. He will most likely let go of the other dog long enough for you to get them separated. Then keep them separated. You’ll most likely have Hulk-strength at this point. Use it. Lift your dog off the ground. If the other dog comes at you, kick it in the snout.

Remember, if it’s a bad fight, you must act to separate the dogs with whatever you have – but never, ever put your face, hands or arms in between them. If you can find a stick or large blunt object, you can try to separate the dogs by swinging it between them, and then get them away from each other by wheelbarrowing or pulling them apart by their leashes.

Other stuff that works in less aggressive fights: squirt bottles – most dogs hate being squirted with water! You can also dump your iced tea on them – use whatever you have. Water Buckets–if you are at the dog park, pick up the water dish/bucket and dump the whole thing on the dogs. Noise – make a sudden, loud noise to startle the dogs and then get them away from each other. Slam a door, whack a table with a book, bang some pans and pots together, or do one of those really loud whistles if you can. Barriers – jamming something between fighting dogs often stops the argument long enough to separate them – a cookie sheet, a chair, a broom, whatever you have. Yelling at the dogs will most likely have zero effect. Don’t waste your energy – instead, stay calm and think of how to separate the fighters.

When the dogs have been separated, keep them separated. Inspect yourself for injuries. Inspect each dog for injuries, especially their throats, front legs, and their backs. Run your hands through their fur. Look at their paws.  Take five minutes to calm down. Reassure your dog in a calm voice, using their name.

Remember to reassess your dog about 15-20 minutes later, because often times the wound will scab by then, and you’ll be more apt to locate the wound.  Also, know that dogs get over things faster than we do. Try not to project emotions on your dog because you feel them. Don’t worry too much about ‘why’ a dog fight happened in terms of emotions, but rather, try to see the world as a dog sees it: they depend on us for protection, food and shelter, and in turn, they protect us from what they perceive as threats. Remember that there are triggers for dogs like leashes, fences and gates, toys and food. Being aware of the ways in which our dogs see/perceive the world is the best way to avoid potentially dangerous situations.

Here are some additional resources – there’s a lot of information out there – it’s good to read up on this topic if you own a dog!

http://www.aspcabehavior.org/articles/49/Aggression-in-Dogs.aspx

http://www.boxer-rescue-la.com/trainer/leashagression.htm

http://www.paw-rescue.org/PAW/PETTIPS/DogTip_FightsBetweenDogs.php

##


Victoria Stilwell Interview

We ran across this link to Six Random Questions for Victoria Stilwell, positive reinforcement dog trainer and host of It’s Me Or The Dog on Animal Planet. (BoingBoing.net is one of my favorite daily websites! – Christopher)

http://www.boingboing.net/2010/03/30/qa-with-victoria-sti.html

Some selected quotes:

We’re bringing these animals to live in our domestic environment, where they have to live by human rules. That can be very hard — why can’t they poo and pee everywhere? In the dog world, they go when they need to, and chew and mark as they please.

A lot of people think positive reinforcement training is just for little dogs and nandy pandy behavior, but it’s actually based on the science of learning. If your dog does something good, you reward it, and that’ll make him feel good and want to repeat that behavior. Discipline shouldn’t be used to make a dog fear you — you get much better results if you use it as a guide.

It’s a human thing to think that a dog thinks it’s human. There are some things that dogs do that make people think, oh they’re acting human! But dogs are just trying to work out what brings rewards, what will make them feel good.

We use positive reinforcement techniques here at Dawg House – check out more on this topic: http://positively.com/positive-reinforcement/why-positive-reinforcement/

##

Dawg House Fall 2009 Newsletter

In this issue:

  • New Dawgs
  • HSSA Adoption Center Grand Opening Party 
  • Can dogs get the H1N1 swine flu?
  • Good Dog, Smart Dog
  • Holiday Dog  Hazards
  • Dawg House Boarding On-and-Off-Site

~~~~~~~~~~

It’s New Dawgs Time! Let’s hear it for all the wonderful new members of our pack: Rayne (Lab mix), Nova (Great Dane), Pierre (Poodle – Chloe’s new brother!), Paris (mix), Nation (Pit mix), Quincy (Golden Doodle), Uli (mix), Hairy (Jack Russell), Silver (Siberian Husky), Lizzy (Aussie), Khaki and Onyx (Great Danes), Pinto (Aussie), Carter (Pit mix), Izzy (Yorkie / Maltese), Star (Lab mix), Chaco (Lab mix), and Matti (Cockapoo). WOOF! Welcome to the pack!

 If we forgot you, please let us know!

~~~~~~~~~~

hssa logoThe Humane Society of Southern Arizona has been rescuing, protecting, and saving pets in Tucson for over 65 years. Now, for the first time ever, HSSA has expanded with a new satellite location. We are proud to introduce our new Adoption Center and pet merchandise store at Park Place Mall with a grand opening celebration Saturday Nov. 21st.
 
Please join us in celebrating our new location, where fashion and shopping meets furry friendships, at Park Place Mall in the South East corner near Sears. The celebration starts at 11:00 a.m. and continues until 5:00 p.m. 

Dawg House will have a booth at this event, so come down, support the HSSA and say hi! We’ll see you there.

http://www.hssaz.org/site/News2?page=NewsArticle&id=5851&security=1021&news_iv_ctrl=-1

~~~~~~~~~~

H1N1 and Dogs

So far, there are documented cases of ferrets, turkeys, pigs and a cat who have contracted the H1N1 (‘Swine Flu’) virus from humans. The cat recovered; there was one reported ferret death. There have been, however, no reported cases of dogs with H1N1 yet.

sick dog2That doesn’t mean they might not get it, eventually, so normal precautions should be taken if you have any sort of illness in your home. Viruses compromise immune systems in all living organisms, so you want to be careful when sypmtoms arise in you or your pets. Many of the sites we visited for research on this topic recommend that at home you should be washing your hands, covering your face when you sneeze and cough, and if you are ill, you should try to keep your pets from sleeping in your room or on your bed (if that’s possible!)

From the American Veterinary Medical Association Website:

So far, there haven’t been any reports of dogs infected with the 2009 H1N1 flu virus. Based on what’s been reported, ferrets and one cat – and probably dogs, if they can become infected with the virus – have shown signs of respiratory illness. These signs can include lethargy, loss of appetite, fever, runny nose and/or eyes, sneezing, coughing, or changes in breathing (including difficulty breathing).

Keep in mind that dogs currently have their own flu virus, the H3N8 influenza (canine influenza) virus, going around. So far, this flu virus has only been spread from dog to dog. Dogs infected with the canine influenza virus show the same symptoms as dogs with kennel cough – fever, lethargy, loss of appetite, coughing, and maybe a runny nose.

http://www.avma.org/public_health/influenza/new_virus/new_flu_virus_faq.asp

Similar information is posted on the ASPCA website:

http://www.aspca.org/pressroom/press-releases/042909-2.html

Here’s a link to the CDC (Center for Disease Control) post regarding dogs and H1N1:

http://www.cdc.gov/flu/canine/

And several others:

http://vetmedicine.about.com/b/2009/09/18/can-my-dog-or-cat-get-swine-flu.htm

http://consults.blogs.nytimes.com/2009/11/05/can-pets-get-swine-flu/

http://www.time.com/time/health/article/0,8599,1934826,00.html

http://www.dogster.com/newsletter/index.php?i=166

~~~~~~~~~~

dog reading illo

illustration by Ross Macdonald

 A recent article in the New York Times caught our attention. Good Dog, Smart Dog” by Sarah Kershaw presents a ton of great insight in a short article about service dogs, dog intelligence, and research focused on a deeper understanding of how dogs perceive the world.

“By giving dogs language learning and other tests devised for infants and toddlers, Dr. Coren has come up with an intelligence ranking of 100 breeds, with border collies at No. 1. He says the most intelligent breeds (poodles, retrievers, Labradors and shepherds) can learn as many as 250 words, signs and signals, while the others can learn 165. The average dog is about as intellectually advanced as a 2- to 2-and-a-half-year-old child, he has concluded, with an ability to understand some abstract concepts. For example, the animal can get ”the idea of being a dog” by differentiating photographs with dogs in them from photographs without dogs.”

It’s no secret that dogs have certain senses and abilities that we as humans do not. They see the world in a completely different way than we do, and yet we often judge their intelligence on how it compares to our own. We put very little effort into interpreting the world as dogs perceive it, but how much effort do we make to comminucate with dogs on their terms? How mute we must seem to them sometimes, when we don’t smell what they smell, hear what they hear, or show them the patience in all things that they show us. Dogs are smart, but they are also wise.

More on this article and subject in a recent post from one of our fave blogs:

http://thedogcomeswith.blogspot.com/2009/11/my-dog-thinks-like-2-year-old-human.html

The original NYT article:

http://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?res=9C0DE1DC1731F932A35752C1A96F9C8B63

~~~~~~~~~~

Holiday Hazards for Dawgs

dog dinner partyEach year we try to outline some of the holiday-related toxins that dawgs should stay away from. It’s tempting to give our pets lots of treats (especially when we’re getting so many!), but the fact is, certain people foods (and other holiday items) can be hazardous to their health! 

 The usual dog-toxin suspects we list each year include: 

  • Bones (no Turkey bones, Ham bones, Chicken bones etc.)  They can lacerate or obstruct your pets insides–use them for making stock, not as a treat for your pet.
  • Animal Fat (undigestable); plus too many fatty, rich or new types of food can give your pet pancreatitis or gastroenteritis; two medical conditions that can be painful and even life threatening.
  • Gravy / Butter / Dairy (a little turkey broth is OK!)
  • Chocolate / Nuts
  •  Garbage / Tin Foil / Plastic Bags (always tasty but toxic)–they can also cause a bowel obstruction.
  • Poinsettas, Holly, Mistletoe, Cedar (trees) – all toxic
  • Alcohol / Coffee
  • Onions/Onion Powder (often found in stuffings, will destroy red blood cells and cause anemia 
  • Raisins / Grapes contain a toxin that can cause kidney problems in both cats and dogs.
  • Also make sure your pet has a quiet retreat during the hectic festivities that may be overwhelming–give him/her a break if they appear stressed.

More detailed info can be found online:

http://www.petclassroom.com/toxictodogs.shtml

 http://www.vetinfo.com/dtoxin.html

http://www.dogster.com/newsletter/index.php?i=167

http://www.nsalamerica.org/pet-tips/thanksgiving-pet-tips.html

~~~~~~~~~~

sm dh logo framedDawg House Boarding

It appears that Dawg House is FINALLY ready to offer onsite boarding, starting at the beginning of December.  We will continue to offer in home boarding as well, but even our onsite boarding will be pretty cushy. We will limit the boarding to no more than 10 dogs, which gives each dog a lot of specialized attention.

Dogs that are being boarded onsite at Dawg House (we have a WHOLE section of the building that most of you haven’t even seen!) will include the dogs being in daycare during the day, and will stay in a Great Dane sized crate overnight, which should be perfect for them to collapse into after they’ve played all day!

This gives our clients comfort, knowing that they can check in on them during the day on our webcam, and knowing that they won’t be locked up in a run for extended periods of time.

We also will continue to require that you supply food from home, so your pup won’t have any gastroenterological disruption (bad tummy!).  Plus, you are always welcome to supply whatever else you would want your pup to have while he/she is away from you—their favorite teddy bear, their bed, a kong.

We also, of course, will give (or apply) any medications that the dogs will need during their stay free of charge.

The pricing structure for our boarding will be as follows:

For our in home boarding: The price will remain at $35 per 24 hour period, and that includes daycare.  We will continue to only board dogs that we know well (regular daycare clients), and also will continue to limit the number to ensure their happiness and to ensure that we have enough room in our house! 

For on site boarding: The cost for will be: $30.We will board dogs that aren’t regular daycare clients, but because they will be in daycare all day long with our regulars, they will have to pass a temperament evaluation, be spayed/neutered by 6 months of age, and provide full vaccination records. 

If the dogs are picked up before 9:00am on they day they are going home, no daycare rate will apply. After the 9:00am pickup time, the charge will be either half or a whole day of daycare on top of the boarding charge.

We’re really excited about getting this started and we look forward to offering this extension of our services to you all.

 ~~~~~~~~~~

“If you would understand this secret, you must first understand the distinction between training an animal and educating one. Trained animals are relatively easy to turn out. All that is required is a book of instructions, a certain amount of bluff and bluster, something to use for threatening and punishing purposes, and of course the animal. Educating an animal, on the other hand, demands keen intelligence, integrity, imagination, and the gentle touch, mentally, vocally, and physically.”

J. Allen Boone, Kinship with All Life

~~~~~~~~~~

Thanks for reading – send your suggestions for future newsletters and posts!

Your friends,

Erica, Christopher, Benjamin and Finnegan

~~~~~~~~~~